ARpiCADE Forums

Hi,
I received my ARpiCade in december. Finally getting around to try and set this up.

Now, my arcade machine does have a jamma connector, but it's also one of those machines that was originally a 1066 in 1 or XXXX in 1 machine.
They are a machine with a Chinese Windows PC with a daughter board on top, which then interfaces with the jamma connector.

Pictures below.
https://imgur.com/a/oAbHhVd

Does anyone know if these machines are compatible with the ARpiCADE?

I have tried all the variations in the config file
hdmi_group=1
## Use only one mode at a time
# Boot and menus in 480i (rotated games in 480i, non rotated games in 240p/256p/288p)
#hdmi_mode=6
# Boot and menus in 240p (all games in 240p/256p/288p)
#hdmi_mode=8
# Boot and menus in 480p (no res switching, just 480p)
hdmi_mode=1
# 640x480 at 60hz
#hdmi_mode=4

All of them display a scratchy screen.

I plug my 1066 in 1 board back in and it's fine, so the screen is working without issues. I suspect I also need to purchase the kick harness attachment as well.

Any ideas of what I might be able to do?

That machine, unless I'm mistaken, is an Australian made Viper cab. I've owned one before, they're a pretty good generic JAMMA cab, they also came with a great quality Nanao monitor. It would not have come originally with that PC based multi, I don't think. That cab in proper JAMMA form (assuming it hasn't been messed with too much in the previous 20 years) is definately compatible with the RaspberryJAMMA/ARpiCADE combo.

Does it still have the original monitor? If so you should be running the system in low res, the default 480i settings should be fine or the 240p only settings if the monitor flickers a lot interlaced (Nanaos are usually pretty good).

From the picture it looks like you may just need to adjust the v-sync a bit on the monitor chassis to match the new board. It's hard to say for sure as I'm not entirely sure how everything is with the cab... If you have no experience with CRT monitors be very careful (be careful if you have experience too... lol) they can hold very large amounts of stored charge, even unplugged, you don't want to touch the wrong bits.

Howdy,
I haven't mucked with the vsync at all. Was thinking that was perhaps the next thing to try.
I can't remember what monitor is in it. I bought it like that about 8 to 10 years ago. Will take some more photos when I get the back off the machine off.

It weighs an absolute ton and have to move my couch and then the pinball machine and then the arcade machine to get to the back of it. Unfortunately it's not a 5 minute job.

Will update soon.

thanks for your help so far. Will try those suggestions.

cheers

Hi,
Thanks so much for you help. I have finally gotten around to this again. After finally get the courage to pull out the arcade machine from the wall and get into the back of it, I've taken some pics.

https://imgur.com/a/M22b1hy

I found it was running in 25khz mode, as the 1066 in 1 had a video mode setting in it, and it could switch between 4 modes. NTSC, PAL, SEGA and VGA. I believe the SEGA one is 24 or 25khz. So this gave me the idea that the monitor needs to be in 15khz mode for it to work.

Figured the raspberry pi is outputting 15khz for a traditional arcade monitor setup. Adjusting the vertical and horizontal adjustments did nothing. Lots of mucking around there. Nothing working. Kept looking and finally found a plug that has the option 15khz or 25khz deep into the gutz of the machine. Very hard to see. It was plugged into the 25khz plug. So carefully powered it all off, put on some dishwashing gloves to protect myself in case I got zapped and changed the plug from 25 to 15. The pictures show all this.
Found it is a Star Vision chassis as well, so here is some info if anyone has any of these setups.

Powered it back on with the ArPiCade and Whammo! It's working. Adjusted the vertial and horizontal hold, and it's back in business finally.

The only issue I'm having now is buttons 5 and 6 aren't working. I'm pretty sure it's the 1066 in 1 setup for those buttons. I've got the dips for 1 and 2 ON and 3 and 4 off. Button 4 is definitely working for players 1 and 2.
I think I just need to wire buttons 5 and 6 to the ArPiCade hardware manually to get them going, which is do-able.

Does this sound right?

Sounds about right. Was the previous system using a kick harness for 5 and 6?

The other thing to check is under the control panel are all the buttons daisy chain grounded together? If your old kick harness included GNDs you may also need to link 5 and 6 to the rest as the RasperryJAMMA kick harness doesn't have GNDs.

Alternately RaspberryJAMMA can handle 6 buttons on the JAMMA edge too, but if you plan to use other dedicated boards with the cab you're better off using kick harness rather than non standard JAMMA.

All buttons are wired to ground via a daisy chain setup.

I've manually wired buttons 5 and 6 to the ArPiCade and they're now working with the current dip switch settings as explained previously.
Street Fighter 2 and Mortal Kombat are now working as expected.

Thanks for the help. Cheers!